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芝麻酱石磨机之北方人对芝麻酱的情怀!

来源:http://www.zysmcn.com/发布时间:2022-03-01

有人说,南方人和北方人的区别,实际上就隐藏在火锅蘸料里。重庆人喜欢芝麻油加蒜泥,广东人只需一盘清爽酱油,潮汕人偏爱沙茶小料……

有人说,南方人和北方人的区别,实际上就隐藏在火锅蘸料里。重庆人喜欢芝麻油加蒜泥,广东人只需一盘清爽酱油,潮汕人偏爱沙茶小料。但到了北方,在那碗浓稠醇厚的芝麻酱面前,一切配料都会化作“浮云”。
Some people say that the biggest difference between southerners and northerners is actually hidden in hot pot dipping. Chongqing people like sesame oil and mashed garlic. Cantonese only need a plate of refreshing soy sauce. Chaoshan people prefer small ingredients of sand tea... But in the north, in front of that bowl of thick and mellow sesame sauce, all ingredients will turn into "floating clouds".
要说北方人对芝麻酱的执念,北京人当属。火锅蘸料,只是芝麻酱美食的冰山一角。对北京人而言,一盘芝麻酱,可以从早吃到晚,从春吃到冬。甭管是凉菜小炒还是面皮豆腐,配盘芝麻酱,蘸就得了。夏天的小饭馆里,总是可以闻见芝麻酱的香味。
To say that northerners' obsession with sesame paste, Beijingers should be the first. Hot pot dipping is just the tip of the iceberg of sesame sauce. For Beijingers, a plate of sesame paste can be eaten from morning to night, from spring to winter. No matter whether it's cold dish stir fry or noodle tofu, it can be dipped with a plate of sesame paste. In small restaurants in summer, you can always smell the smell of sesame paste.
在北京,用芝麻酱裹上过水的凉面,切点黄瓜丝再淋上蒜汁、芥末油和醋,搅拌均匀一口吃下去,比开空调吃西瓜都舒坦。加了芝麻酱的麻辣烫也是一绝。土豆、白菜、杏鲍菇、豆芽、丸子、方便面……下锅煮熟,加一份蒌麻酱。芝麻酱的醇香中和了辣椒的刺激,提鲜又增味。
In Beijing, it is more comfortable to eat watered cold noodles wrapped in sesame paste, cut cucumber shreds, sprinkle garlic juice, mustard oil and vinegar, stir them evenly, and eat them in one mouthful than eating watermelon with air conditioner on. Spicy hot with sesame paste is also unique. Potatoes, cabbage, Pleurotus eryngii, bean sprouts, balls, instant noodles... Cook in the pot and add a portion of Lou sesame paste. The mellow aroma of sesame paste neutralizes the stimulation of pepper, which improves freshness and flavor.
北京人对芝麻酱的“敬重”,还体现在对芝麻酱的精挑细选上。芝麻酱好不好吃,要先看正不正宗。而要看芝麻酱正不正宗,就要多方位进行考察,讲究、细致程度完全不亚于喝红酒要从如何选杯子开始。看似粗犷的一瓶芝麻酱,需要先经历精选、色筛、水洗、萌发、烘炒、风净和石磨研磨等层层工序。
Beijing People's "respect" for sesame paste is also reflected in the careful selection of sesame paste. Whether sesame paste is delicious depends on whether it is authentic or not. To see whether the sesame paste is authentic or not, we need to investigate in many aspects. The degree of attention and detail is no less than that of drinking red wine. We should start from how to choose the cup. A seemingly rough bottle of sesame paste needs to go through layers of processes such as selection, color screening, washing, germination, baking, air cleaning and stone grinding.
精选是为了挑选成熟饱满的芝麻;剔除杂质、空皮和秕粒;色选是为了剔除异色粒,保证芝麻原料的质量均衡,白芝麻里没有黑芝麻,黑芝麻里没有白芝麻;水洗是为了剔除芝麻表皮上的浮尘;萌发是为了使具备生命力的芝麻充分产生芝养素;烘炒保证芝麻香醇又没有糊味;风净扬烟能够避免芝麻团成团,使得芝麻在久经研磨后口感更好,石磨研磨低温低压,有效保证芝麻的营养成分不被破坏。
Selection is to select mature and full sesame; Remove impurities, empty skin and chaff; Color selection is to eliminate different color particles and ensure the quality balance of sesame raw materials. There is no black sesame in white sesame and no white sesame in black sesame; Washing is to remove the floating dust on the surface of sesame; Germination is to make sesame with vitality fully produce Ganoderma lucidum; Bake and fry to ensure that sesame is mellow and has no paste flavor; The wind and smoke can avoid the agglomeration of sesame, which makes the sesame taste better after long grinding. The low temperature and low pressure of stone grinding can effectively ensure that the nutritional components of sesame are not damaged.
要挑选一份“芝麻酱”,须牢记:一看,二闻,三舀,四尝。一份正宗的芝麻酱颜色应当介于棕褐和棕黄之中,细腻的酱面上须得泛着微微光泽。如果一份芝麻酱是浅棕色时,它可能就是和花生酱兑出来的“二八酱”,也有可能是添加了其他油料作物的“掺假芝麻酱”。一份正宗的芝麻酱常常不用搅动就能“香飘十里”,闻起来能令人产生一种饱腹感。芝麻酱的浓稠度也决定了它的品质,用勺子舀一下,便知好坏。好的芝麻酱,会让人感到一种黏滞的阻力,但不会过于“干硬”。正宗芝麻酱带给人的定是一种绵厚悠长的感官体验:质地细腻,略苦又自带回甘属性。
To choose a "supreme sesame paste", you must remember: one look, two smell, three scoops and four tastes. The color of an authentic sesame paste should be between brown and tan, and the delicate sauce surface must be slightly shiny. If a portion of sesame paste is light brown, it may be "28 butter" mixed with peanut butter, or it may be "adulterated sesame paste" added with other oil crops. An authentic sesame paste can often be "fragrant for ten miles" without stirring, which can make people feel full. The consistency of sesame paste also determines its quality. Scoop it with a spoon to know whether it is good or bad. Good sesame paste will make people feel a sticky resistance, but it will not be too "dry and hard". Authentic sesame paste brings people a thick and long sensory experience: fine texture, slightly bitter and sweet.
吃火锅时,手动“澥芝麻酱”也是一道非常重要的工序。即把芝麻酱由略苦黏稠变得香醇润滑的动作和过程。将火锅的汤汁或是凉开水、香油分批次地加进芝麻酱里,顺着一个方向不停地搅动,就能得到一份澥完的芝麻酱。从酱水分离到酱水交融既是一项需要手劲儿的技术活,也是一个享受等待的过程。
When eating hot pot, manual "Shu sesame paste" is also a very important process. That is, the action and process of changing sesame paste from slightly bitter and viscous to mellow and lubricating. Add the hot pot soup or cold boiled water and sesame oil into the sesame paste in batches and stir it continuously in one direction to get a finished sesame paste. From sauce water separation to sauce water blending is not only a technical work that requires effort, but also a process of enjoying waiting.
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